View Full Version : Inexpensive reliable trailer
hadfield4wd
06-02-2009, 03:02 PM
So it has taken a while. With the job, kids and their activities it has taken much longer than it should have. Also I am trying to see how inexpensive I could build a good, reliable and safe trailer. My labor is not included in the cost.
I don’t have a ton of progress pictures.
Anyway I bought this. A used travel trailer frame of unknown age. No its not mobile home axles so don’t worry (even though there is nothing wrong with them). These are old demountable rims.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer1.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer3.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer2.jpg
I got a travel permit and borrowed some magnetic lights and drove it 3 hours home.
Plans will be a deckover as it’s too narrow and I’ll lengthen it so I can fit both my xj and the kids buggy.
It sat in the back yard for several months.
hadfield4wd
06-02-2009, 03:03 PM
As I started measuring and not only was the trailer frame bent, but the axles were welded on crooked. So I started by straighting the frame. This was actually kind of easy.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer002.jpg
Hooked the winch up and pulled it a little, let off then measured and kept doing this until it came out straight.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer001.jpg
I picked up some used steel from a friend and bought some new. I welded the 3.5x3.5 to the sides to add the width and braced it underneath with 4” channel.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer003.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer004.jpg
This is also how I lengthened it. The deck is just shy of 22’. The box tube sticks up 1 ½” in so when the wood is put down it will be flush with the top.
hadfield4wd
06-02-2009, 03:04 PM
On to the brakes.
This had a really old style brake, from my research it is an old style Warner brake. The entire donut is the magnet and sucks to the side of the rim/drum and that it how it stops. I messed with these a while to see if I could make them work as I didn’t want to spend the money if I didn’t have to. Anyway the magnet draws a ton and after messing with it I could only get one brake to work at a time due to the draw. So discretion taking over I bought some assembled brake backing plates and brakes from a local Dexter dealer. At the same time I replaced all the bearings. None looked horrible, but I didn’t want a problem. I’ll keep the old ones for road spares incase I fry one.
Pics.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer006.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer007.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer005.jpg
I don’t have pictures of the new backing plates.
The wiring and lights are all new. New safety chains and jack.
I paid a kid to wire wheel the entire thing, then I primed it with several rattle cans. I painted all the metal that can be seen with hammered black rattle cans.
mikecraft
06-02-2009, 04:19 PM
hes something to take into consideration with the trailer being 22' you will more then likely have a lot of tounge weight after the xj and the buggy are on it. if you are going to be pulling it with the grand i would move the axle forward about 2' that way you get an even weight distribution. if you still have problems with tounge weight you can try a weight distribution kit. something for you to ponder on
hadfield4wd
06-02-2009, 05:39 PM
It will not be pulled by the WJ. I shouldn't be too bad on tongue weight and if it does get bad I can always put the xj on backwards.
The axle's are where they are supposed to be. I'll just move the vehicles around to get the weight right. Keep in mind its 2 ft longer than what is in the pictures.
I have a wd hitch for it as well if I need it.
xjtrailrider
06-02-2009, 10:45 PM
Looks good Matt!
hadfield4wd
06-03-2009, 07:21 PM
The fenders are Drive over on just the inside edges. They are 3/16 diamond plate. I scored and beat with a sledge hammer to bend it. I was surprised how long it took. Almost an hour per side. But it is a 5 ½’ bend. My wife was driving home when we were doing it and at about a ¼ mile away she said she knew what I was doing.
We stained the edges, ends and underside of all the boards.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer008.jpg
Here it is before we turn them over.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer010.jpg
We used an oil based stain. This will help me get a good long time out of this deck. They boards are prone to rot where they touch metal, because the water will get trapped in there. The tops are being left unstained until the boards dry out. As I was screwing the deck on the water was running up. In about 2 weeks I’ll stain the top. With it being drier the stain will soak in better and being oil based will preserve it much better. My dad got about 20 years out of his last trailer deck done this way.
Here are the completed pictures.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer013.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer011.jpg
The ramps are 5’ and sit flush with the deck.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer012.jpg
Here is how they are held on.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer014.jpg
And there is 4” channel welded to one end. It slides in here. (Please ignore the bugger Arc welds)
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/trailer009.jpg
It doesn’t come off up so they won’t pop up.
rubican!
06-03-2009, 07:56 PM
really nice. thats enough trailor for a rig and some gear. Maybe two rigs.
hadfield4wd
06-03-2009, 08:23 PM
really nice. thats enough trailor for a rig and some gear. Maybe two rigs.
My rig and the kids buggy.:driving:
YJeXtreme
11-20-2009, 01:47 PM
Matt, what stain/sealer did you use? I'm going to be redecking my trailer over the next 2 weekends. Thanks!
hadfield4wd
11-20-2009, 02:00 PM
Matt, what stain/sealer did you use? I'm going to be redecking my trailer over the next 2 weekends. Thanks!
I used just a regular OIL BASED stain. Don't do latex (water based). Make sure you do the underside. Make sure the wood is really dry before you start. Mine sat for a about a month before I stained the top. Try not to let it sit in the sun, it'll dry too fast and crack. The drier it is the more the oil based stuff soaks in. You'll get really good life out of it this way.
YJeXtreme
11-20-2009, 02:21 PM
Thanks pal, yea definately doing underside & edges... bought trailer used... its only 6-9yr old & half boards are rotted. I might redesign the ramp storage similar to yours instead of the slide-in storage tray on the right side....
hadfield4wd
11-20-2009, 02:40 PM
If yours already has the slide in I'd keep it. Honestly the only reason that I didn't do a slide in is because I didn't want to buy another stick of angle. I'll post an update. I did bend my ramps so they are fixed and reinforced. I also lost a pin that holds them on. The front portion is not secured, but I have a way to do it. I just need add the piece on the trailer side.
hadfield4wd
10-27-2011, 04:08 PM
So its been a about 2.5 years since I built this. The trailer has been great. It’s done everything I’ve asked it to. No flats. I did wear out a tire on the way to Harlan last year. It wasn’t running “true” and wobbled all the way. Wore all the tread off. That’s why I carry 2 spares.
I’ve every spring I go repack my bearings.
But there are some things that were nagging on me about it that could use some improvement. First is the ramp attachment. I lost the pin quickly and I just used ratchet straps to hold them on. I never liked it but it kept them on. I had an anchor bolt screwed into the front portion of the cutout, then I cut the head off and drilled a hole in the ramp. This kept the front portion of the ramps from bouncing out. The rear portion still had the strap. So I used the existing hole I had for the pin and made this bent piece. It’s got 3 bends and needs to be twisted all around to get out. It’s held on by a small chain.
You can see the strap here.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Tow%20rigs/060.jpg
New setup.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/100_6691.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/100_6690.jpg
The second thing that was bothering me is I had one board that kept popping up at the end, breaking the bolts, so I unscrewed and flipped it over. Easy fix.
The third item bothering me was my spares. I hated them strapped to the front. But I couldn’t think of an easy way to mount them. The trailer has a short tongue so to put them there meant they were in the way of something. I wanted to keep my deck space, although I don’t really need it as I sold the kids buggy, so all I’m doing is towing the XJ.
You can see in this pic the straps holding the spares.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Tow%20rigs/IMG00488-20111021-1020.jpg
I realized I had enough room underneath in the front for the spares. So I cut out some plates out of ¼”. Drilled and tapped for ¾” – 10 all thread. I threaded the all thread into the hole and welded it. Drilled a hole in the decking. I then used some 1” square tube I had laying around and drilled a hole. Pretty simple and works.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/100_6686.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/100_6687.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/100_6688.jpg
Finally I like to stain the trailer every year but I guess I got lazy so I put some stain on it. Oil based. Soaked up pretty good. It’s more so preserve the wood than for looks but here are pics anyway.
Before
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/IMG00490-20111027-1108.jpg
After
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k51/hadfield4wd/Trailer/100_6689.jpg
As I sold the reason (kids buggy on the trailer with my xj) for the long trailer (21’ 7”). I’m thinking about either selling this one and getting a smaller enclosed trailer for dry sleeping or mounting a pop up to the front of this one.
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